
Creeping Fig
Ficus pumila
A vigorous little climber that will scramble over hardscape and up the glass. Trim it to keep it in check.
View plant →Open terrariums are airy, unsealed bowls and dishes where moisture escapes and air moves freely. These plants want exactly that — succulents, cacti, air plants and other easygoing choices that would rot in a sealed, humid jar.
26 plants below. Tap any photo for the full plant page and its care notes.

Ficus pumila
A vigorous little climber that will scramble over hardscape and up the glass. Trim it to keep it in check.
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Pellaea rotundifolia
Round, leathery leaflets along arching stems. Tolerates a bit more airflow than most ferns.
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Epipremnum aureum
Nearly unkillable. Handles almost any conditions and grows fast — a safe first plant. Pinch it back often.
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Peperomia prostrata
Tiny patterned leaves like little turtle shells on fine trailing stems. Slow but very charming.
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Peperomia caperata
Deeply textured, rippled leaves in a tidy mound. Semi-succulent, so it copes with either environment.
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Syngonium podophyllum
Arrow-shaped leaves in green, pink or cream. Grows quickly, so keep the compact varieties and prune.
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Hypoestes phyllostachya
Splashy pink, red or white speckled leaves for instant colour. Pinch the tips to stop it getting leggy.
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Cryptanthus bivittatus
A star-shaped bromeliad in striped pinks and bronzes. Stays put, wants good light, and adds bold structure.
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Hedera helix
Classic trailing vine. Prefers airflow — in a sealed jar it can rot, so keep it to open setups.
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Chamaedorea elegans
A miniature palm that brings height while young. Eventually outgrows a terrarium, so treat it as temporary drama.
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Haworthiopsis attenuata
A tough striped succulent. Wants a dry, open, well-drained setup — it will rot fast in a sealed jar.
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Echeveria elegans
Sculptural pastel rosettes. Needs bright light and dry air — strictly open terrariums and sandy mixes.
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Crassula ovata
Plump little tree-like succulent. Store-water leaves mean it hates humidity — open, dry, and bright only.
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Curio rowleyanus
Strands of little green beads that spill over the rim. A succulent, so keep it in dry, open conditions.
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Tillandsia ionantha
Grows with no soil at all — just perch it on wood or stone. Must dry out fully between mists, so open only.
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Mammillaria sp.
A small globe cactus, sometimes with a ring of flowers. Needs full airflow and gritty soil — never sealed.
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Sempervivum tectorum
Hardy rosettes that pup freely into clusters. Loves it dry and bright — an easy open-terrarium succulent.
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Gasteria bicolor
Tongue-shaped speckled leaves. More shade-tolerant than most succulents, but still wants dry, open air.
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Peperomia argyreia
Iconic teardrop leaves striped silver and green like watermelon rind, on deep-red stems. Semi-succulent, so it copes with either setup.
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Saintpaulia ionantha
One of the few terrarium plants that flowers reliably — velvety leaves and clusters of purple, pink or white blooms. Keep water off the crown.
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Dionaea muscipula
The famous snapping traps. Wants an open setup with airflow to catch prey, lots of light, nutrient-poor soil, rain or distilled water — and a cool winter rest.
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Neoregelia "Fireball"
A compact bromeliad that blushes fiery red in good light. The go-to vivarium bromeliad — stays small and pups into clusters.
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Oxalis triangularis
Deep-purple triangular leaves that fold up at night, with dainty pale-pink flowers. Grows from bulbs and bounces back even if it dies down.
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Philodendron hederaceum "Micans"
Heart-shaped leaves with a velvety, iridescent bronze-green sheen. An easy trailing aroid — pinch it back to keep it compact.
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Sedum morganianum
Ropes of plump, overlapping blue-green beads that spill over the rim. Keep it dry, bright and open — the beads drop if knocked.
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Portulacaria afra
Tiny round jade-like leaves on red stems. A fast, forgiving succulent for dry open setups — an easier alternative to a jade plant.
View plant →An open terrarium is an unsealed bowl or dish where air moves freely and moisture escapes. The plants that thrive in it are built for dry air and bright light — the desert and scrubland species that would rot in a humid sealed jar. Look for three things: tolerance of drier air, a love of bright light (many take a little direct sun), and roots that want a gritty, free-draining mix rather than constant moisture.
The one rule that decides everything: never seal these plants in. Every plant above wants airflow — the humidity-lovers that belong in a closed jar are listed at the bottom so you know what to leave out.
Rosette succulents (sculptural centrepieces): echeveria, zebra haworthia, hens and chicks and gasteria form tidy, structural rosettes that love bright light.
Upright & tree-like: jade plant and elephant bush bring height and a miniature-tree look.
Trailing succulents (spill over the rim): string of pearls, burro's tail and the semi-succulent string of turtles.
Cacti & air plants: a pincushion cactus for a sunny spot, or a soil-free air plant perched on wood or stone.
Easy foliage (flexible, forgiving): pothos, watermelon peperomia, polka dot plant, arrowhead vine and the striking earth star bromeliad.
Flowers & a carnivore: African violet for reliable blooms, or a Venus flytrap, which wants open airflow (rain or distilled water only, and a cool winter rest).
Humidity-lovers slowly crisp and brown in dry, open air. Keep these for a closed terrarium instead: nerve plant, baby's tears, maidenhair fern, spikemoss, all moss, and closed-terrarium specialists like marcgravia. If a plant's care notes say it needs constant humidity, it doesn't belong in an open bowl.
Dry-air, bright-light plants: succulents like echeveria, haworthia, jade and hens and chicks, plus cacti, air plants and hardy foliage such as pothos. They want airflow and a gritty, free-draining mix — the opposite of a sealed humid jar.
Not really. Ferns, moss and fittonia need constant humidity, and in open, airy conditions they dry out and crisp within days. Put them in a closed terrarium instead, and fill an open one with succulents, cacti and air plants.
There's no water cycle, so you water it yourself — but sparingly. Let the substrate dry out fully, then give a little water at the base. For succulents that often means every couple of weeks; overwatering is the fastest way to kill an open setup.
Yes. Open-terrarium plants rot in soggy soil, so use a gritty, free-draining mix (add sand or perlite) over a drainage layer of pebbles. Unlike a closed jar, the goal is for water to pass through, not linger.
A hardy succulent like zebra haworthia or hens and chicks — both shrug off missed waterings, want nothing more than bright light, and pup into clusters over time. Jade plant and pothos are similarly forgiving.
Far less than closed ones. The airflow keeps things dry, which discourages mould. The trade-off is that pests find the plants more easily and there is no self-watering cycle, so you have to water yourself.
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