
Nerve Plant
Fittonia albivenis
The classic closed-terrarium plant. Bright leaf veins, loves humidity, dramatically wilts if it dries out (and perks back up fast).
View plant →New to terrariums? Start with these. Every plant here is rated easy — forgiving of the odd mistake, widely sold as a small young plant, and happy in the conditions a beginner can actually provide. Get one thriving before you move on to the fussier, showier species.
A terrarium lives or dies by one early decision: closed or open? Closed jars are humid, so pick the ferns, moss, fittonia and other tropicals below; open bowls are dry and airy, so pick the succulents and air plants. The single most common beginner mistake is mixing the two in one vessel — one plant always loses. Choose a climate for the glass, then pick beginner plants that share it.
30 plants below. Tap any photo for the full plant page and its care notes.

Fittonia albivenis
The classic closed-terrarium plant. Bright leaf veins, loves humidity, dramatically wilts if it dries out (and perks back up fast).
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Ficus pumila
A vigorous little climber that will scramble over hardscape and up the glass. Trim it to keep it in check.
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Pilea depressa
Tiny round leaves on delicate trailing stems. Fast-growing filler that softens edges beautifully.
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Nephrolepis cordifolia "Duffii"
A compact, forgiving fern with a faint lemon scent. Much easier than most ferns and stays small.
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Pellaea rotundifolia
Round, leathery leaflets along arching stems. Tolerates a bit more airflow than most ferns.
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Leucobryum glaucum
Domed, pillowy mounds of moss. The quickest way to make a terrarium feel like a tiny forest floor.
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Hypnum sp.
Flat-growing moss that drapes over soil and stone. Great for covering bare substrate quickly.
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Epipremnum aureum
Nearly unkillable. Handles almost any conditions and grows fast — a safe first plant. Pinch it back often.
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Peperomia prostrata
Tiny patterned leaves like little turtle shells on fine trailing stems. Slow but very charming.
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Peperomia caperata
Deeply textured, rippled leaves in a tidy mound. Semi-succulent, so it copes with either environment.
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Syngonium podophyllum
Arrow-shaped leaves in green, pink or cream. Grows quickly, so keep the compact varieties and prune.
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Hypoestes phyllostachya
Splashy pink, red or white speckled leaves for instant colour. Pinch the tips to stop it getting leggy.
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Cryptanthus bivittatus
A star-shaped bromeliad in striped pinks and bronzes. Stays put, wants good light, and adds bold structure.
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Hedera helix
Classic trailing vine. Prefers airflow — in a sealed jar it can rot, so keep it to open setups.
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Chamaedorea elegans
A miniature palm that brings height while young. Eventually outgrows a terrarium, so treat it as temporary drama.
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Haworthiopsis attenuata
A tough striped succulent. Wants a dry, open, well-drained setup — it will rot fast in a sealed jar.
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Echeveria elegans
Sculptural pastel rosettes. Needs bright light and dry air — strictly open terrariums and sandy mixes.
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Crassula ovata
Plump little tree-like succulent. Store-water leaves mean it hates humidity — open, dry, and bright only.
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Tillandsia ionantha
Grows with no soil at all — just perch it on wood or stone. Must dry out fully between mists, so open only.
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Mammillaria sp.
A small globe cactus, sometimes with a ring of flowers. Needs full airflow and gritty soil — never sealed.
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Sempervivum tectorum
Hardy rosettes that pup freely into clusters. Loves it dry and bright — an easy open-terrarium succulent.
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Gasteria bicolor
Tongue-shaped speckled leaves. More shade-tolerant than most succulents, but still wants dry, open air.
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Peperomia argyreia
Iconic teardrop leaves striped silver and green like watermelon rind, on deep-red stems. Semi-succulent, so it copes with either setup.
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Asplenium nidus
Broad, glossy, ripple-edged fronds unfurling from a central rosette. Architectural and forgiving — one of the easiest ferns.
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Pilea cadierei
Dark leaves splashed with metallic silver. Bushy and quick-growing — pinch the tips to keep it compact.
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Neoregelia "Fireball"
A compact bromeliad that blushes fiery red in good light. The go-to vivarium bromeliad — stays small and pups into clusters.
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Oxalis triangularis
Deep-purple triangular leaves that fold up at night, with dainty pale-pink flowers. Grows from bulbs and bounces back even if it dies down.
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Philodendron hederaceum "Micans"
Heart-shaped leaves with a velvety, iridescent bronze-green sheen. An easy trailing aroid — pinch it back to keep it compact.
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Sedum morganianum
Ropes of plump, overlapping blue-green beads that spill over the rim. Keep it dry, bright and open — the beads drop if knocked.
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Portulacaria afra
Tiny round jade-like leaves on red stems. A fast, forgiving succulent for dry open setups — an easier alternative to a jade plant.
View plant →A beginner-friendly terrarium plant does three things: it forgives mistakes (a missed watering or a slightly wrong spot won't kill it), it's widely sold cheaply as a small young plant, and it's happy in ordinary indoor conditions — bright indirect light and normal room warmth. Every plant on this page is rated easy on all three counts.
Get one plant thriving before you reach for the fussy, showy species. Confidence — and a feel for how your terrarium holds moisture — comes from an early win, not from a difficult plant.
Pick your climate first, then pick beginner plants that share it.
For a closed (humid) jar: nerve plant is the classic starter — it wilts dramatically when thirsty and revives within the hour, so it tells you what it needs. Pair it with easy-going pothos, a forgiving lemon button fern and some cushion moss.
For an open (dry) bowl: start with a hardy zebra haworthia or hens and chicks — near-indestructible succulents — plus a jade plant for height and an echeveria rosette for colour.
Mixing climates. The number-one killer: putting a succulent and a fern in the same vessel. One always loses — choose closed or open and stick to plants that share it.
Direct sun. Glass magnifies sunlight and cooks the inside. Use bright indirect light only.
Overwatering an open setup. Open terrariums have no water cycle but still rot if kept soggy — let the substrate dry between waterings.
Tap water on sensitive plants. Moss and carnivores need rain or distilled water; tap-water minerals brown and kill them over time.
Fittonia (nerve plant) for a closed, humid terrarium — it is cheap, compact and dramatically wilts when thirsty, then perks straight back up, so it tells you exactly when something is wrong. For an open, dry terrarium, a hardy succulent like haworthia is the most forgiving start.
Start with two or three that share the same light and moisture needs. A single carpet or moss plus one feature plant is plenty for a small jar — overplanting is a common beginner mistake that leads to crowding and rot.
Usually not. Bright, indirect light from an east or north window suits most of these plants. Avoid direct sun — glass magnifies it and cooks the inside. A cheap full-spectrum bulb only helps if your room is genuinely dark.
The three usual causes are direct sun (overheating), tap water on carnivores or sensitive plants, and mixing plants with opposite needs. Pick easy plants that match your terrarium type, keep them out of direct sun, and do not overwater an open setup.
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